By Eric Mc Millan

There are many opinions and preferences of what batteries to use and I chose the RR1 because of cost and the fact that you can top them up, if, for some reason or other they have been gassed. After much measuring and deliberation I found that it was possible to get the standard Land Rover battery and two RR1’s into the 90/110 battery box. This would mean with the two RR1’s in parallel there would be 100Ah standby power.

The battery box floor is leveled using a piece of 18mm marine ply or shuttering board fitted onto the bottom. The board should be spaced form the bottom using strips of tempered masonite. This done to avoid blocking the drain holes. Bolt this board to the bottom of the battery box using the existing holes.

The vehicle battery is now mounted but rotated 90 degrees with the terminals facing the rear. This is done so that the terminals are accessible, as the part of the battery will be under the lip of the battery box.  The two RR1’s are mounted fore and aft with their terminals facing each other. The RR1 has a carrying handle that folds down over the terminals providing shorting protection. Strips of marine ply screwed to the base board keep the batteries apart and in position. a single clamp holds the RR1s in place.

The RR1’s are connected in parallel and then to the vehicle battery with a “Cole Hersey” contactor for charging. This relay provides the isolation when the engine is stopped. The high current inter-connections are made using 25mm2 cable and 8X25 electrical cable lugs.

Control of the contactor can be from the ignition switch or a suitably mounted pull switch that can be operated when required. I used the latter method but want to change it to the ignition switch method as I often have those mature moments when I forget to switch it on or off.

The photo shows the batteries in position.

Last Modified : 09/02/2006 06:46